White Cabernet: A Revolution from Ningxia
White Cabernet: A Revolution from Ningxia
A visionary winemaker, a red grape variety – and the idea to turn it into a cult white wine. How Lenz Maria Moser, with innovation, audacity, and barrique finesse, created the world’s first “White Cabernet” – a surprisingly elegant white wine that impresses not only as an innovation but also as the perfect summer wine.
VIENNA, May 2025. Imagine taking over a winery and urgently needing a white wine – but there are no white grape varieties. That was exactly the challenge Lenz Maria Moser faced in 2015 at his Chinese estate, Château Changyu Moser XV. The Austrian winemaker, a descendant of one of Europe’s most prestigious winemaking dynasties, had just taken on the role of Chief Winemaker in the emerging wine region of Ningxia. What he found: plenty of Cabernet Sauvignon – but no white wine grapes. Yet, this very situation sparked one of the most exciting innovations in modern winemaking: the first white wine made from red Cabernet grapes.
From Memory to a New Wine Style
The idea wasn’t entirely new – back in 1996, Moser had, under extreme time pressure, vinified a botrytis-infected Cabernet blanc in Austria, which turned out colorless but was outstanding in taste. “At the time, it was a one-off – a shooting star,” he recalls. In Ningxia, he revisited that memory. If white wine isn’t available – why not make a white Cabernet Sauvignon? The path was unconventional but technically feasible: only the free-run juice of the grapes – the so-called saignée – was used, avoiding color and tannins. The result: a clear, elegant, exotic white wine made from the world’s most famous red wine grape.
Technique Meets Terroir
Since 2016, this wine has been produced in series – and since 2017 also matured in barrique. Today, the line includes two wines: the Helan Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc de Noir and the Moser Family Blanc de Noir. The Helan Mountain is an aromatic, finely fruity white wine with notes of exotic fruits, cool minerality, and a vibrant finish – ideal for warm summer days and Asian-inspired cuisine. The grapes come from vines growing at 1,100 meters altitude under extreme climatic conditions – hot days, cool nights, and dry air lead to particularly concentrated aromas.
Two Wines, One Statement
The Moser Family White is the premium edition – with fine French barrique aging that lends structure and length to the wine. It reveals notes of grapefruit, gooseberries, and delicate toasted aromas, combined with silky texture and invigorating freshness. A white wine with depth and lightness – not only surprising but also perfect for terraces, light summer cuisine, and balmy evenings.
The Perfect Summer Wine
Both Blanc de Noirs from Cabernet Sauvignon combine the best of two worlds: the freshness and approachability of a white wine with the structure and depth one expects from the grape variety. Especially in summer, they impress with lightness, fruit, and elegance – and stand out clearly from the classic white wine range in terms of taste.
Courage that Was Rewarded
Today, the White Cabernet is not only a rarity but also a flagship for the Ningxia estate – and a symbol of the creative power of modern Chinese winemaking. “When I first presented the idea to my colleagues at Changyu, all I saw were incredulous looks,” Moser recalls. “Today, we all laugh – because this wine has shaped the image of our château.”
Rethinking Winemaking
Revolution in a glass – a white wine for red wine lovers. The White Cabernet is not only technically fascinating but also unique in taste: it preserves the DNA of Cabernet Sauvignon – but without tannin and color. The result is a wine that consistently amazes people. Already a cult favorite in China, a hidden gem in Europe – and certainly one of the most refreshing and original summer wines of our time.
